Rolling into the lot around 6:30 a.m. it was strange to see that 1st car space empty, I obliged the necessity to keep it occupied by a local and took the Boardhound's usual. I pondered the disaster that must have befell our faithful wave riding friend, surely his house had caught fire, a blown tire on the freeway, all his boards turned dominoes in his house??? Surely he'd not miss this day, big wave weekday and he didn't have to work?
Luckily I needn't stress long, for soon Doug pulled in and as we watched a few medium waves roll in with Tava surfing them alone, we decided to hurry into the water, "Where's Todd?", Doug asked as we rushed to change.
"I'm not sure", I replied, "I haven't heard back."
As we changed into the wetsuits and Roxy (shown above) checked the waves, the little girl couldn't help be get a little sad as Doug checked his phone, "I slept in". Doug read from Todd's text.
But soon, the thought was lost, because as Steve and James paddled out along came the bigger sets.
For my second surf in over a month, it wiped out my shoulders, but it's a pain I can love.
Tava caught some of the nicest waves I've seen him ride on his stand-up, dropping a sick, steep, walling right that I'd of loved to have a real camera to catch, I made do with some end of the session shots with my cell phone.
We all made drop after drop into the steep faces and really had a blast and left it all in the water.
So there we sat at breakfast limp arms raising forks to famished mouths, and thankfully we heard a tale that was music to our ears, the legend was not dead. Todd had woken early enough to surf, but knew he'd never pull himself from the water with only an hour session in order to make a 9 a.m. meeting in San Clemente to deliver one of his new boards to have it cutom painted.
Sounds like it's going to be a beauty (we'll post some pictures here for validation of the story later). Todd decided on arrival and after meeting the artists, his mind was better suited for other thoughts than working out an artist's scheme, so he left that work to the master and is excited to see the results. He's going to this guy for his board, some great work! I can't wait to see it.
The art of Drew Borphy
Well, it sure was a fun day out there guys, lets hope it's just the precursor to more killer summer swells to come!
Roxy and I will see you at the waves!
P.S. I'll have the pre-post to Harbour Surf day, one of the 1st two Saturdays of November, and a pretty cool shop event is coming up end of July, so I'll post details on that soon as well.
